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Powdered Graphite for ignition/door locks.
- Thread starter Thread starter AussieLeadfoot
- Start date Start date May 2, 2018
Status Not open for further replies.
- #1
A search in what I considered to be the appropriate forum revealed nothing.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Power-Plus-Graphite-Powder-Lubricant-35g/1173
I am looking to gather opinions about this sort of product as a preventative measure.
There seems to be a bit of pro/con out there in Googleland, so I considered it best to ask the knowledgeable folk here.
If anyone is able to do a more effective search than what I could manage, I would be happy to be pointed in the right direction.
Thanks.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Power-Plus-Graphite-Powder-Lubricant-35g/1173
I am looking to gather opinions about this sort of product as a preventative measure.
There seems to be a bit of pro/con out there in Googleland, so I considered it best to ask the knowledgeable folk here.
If anyone is able to do a more effective search than what I could manage, I would be happy to be pointed in the right direction.
Thanks.
Last edited: May 2, 2018
I used to use a light silicone spray and puff graphite onto my keys as a PM for locks. Brit car mags used to advocate a "puffer" of graphite, and you used to be able to get a concertina bottle of graphite to "puff" into door locks.
Now the locks get much less use.
Ignition keys, the old ones used to only have a single ridge of wearing surfaces, with spring pressure pushing against the key back, and you could see wear marks both ends.
Now with the "teeth" in the key face, not so much of that again.
Now the locks get much less use.
Ignition keys, the old ones used to only have a single ridge of wearing surfaces, with spring pressure pushing against the key back, and you could see wear marks both ends.
Now with the "teeth" in the key face, not so much of that again.
One of the things I want to do this Summer is lubricate any Locks I have.
I want to divide them into 4 catagories.
1) Pad-Locks with Key .... Flush them out with WD-40, then use a 3-IN-ONE oil
2) House Locks ...... Use WD-40 to loosen the moving parts and then 3-IN-ONE Lock Dry Lube
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3) Auto Ignition ...... I have never lubricated and never had a problem
4) Auto Door Lock ...... Flush out with WD-40 or Silicone Spray
1) - 4) are only what I'm thinking of doing.
I am NOT a Lock-Smith or Expert.
Question: If using the graphite powder to 'puff' into the lock, should you worry about it caking-up ? ? ?
I want to divide them into 4 catagories.
1) Pad-Locks with Key .... Flush them out with WD-40, then use a 3-IN-ONE oil
2) House Locks ...... Use WD-40 to loosen the moving parts and then 3-IN-ONE Lock Dry Lube
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3) Auto Ignition ...... I have never lubricated and never had a problem
4) Auto Door Lock ...... Flush out with WD-40 or Silicone Spray
1) - 4) are only what I'm thinking of doing.
I am NOT a Lock-Smith or Expert.
Question: If using the graphite powder to 'puff' into the lock, should you worry about it caking-up ? ? ?
- #7
I gave my drivers side lock a squirt of WD-40 or similar every now and then.
Now I can't get the key in it.
People tell me I've gummed it up and should have been using graphite powder.
Now I can't get the key in it.
People tell me I've gummed it up and should have been using graphite powder.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I gave my drivers side lock a squirt of WD-40 or similar every now and then.
Now I can't get the key in it.
People tell me I've gummed it up and should have been using graphite powder.
Surprising. You might try spraying a solvent like electrical contact cleaner in it and try to work it loose. I've had good luck using contact cleaner for mechanical things (like locks) that are sort of gummed up.
I gave my drivers side lock a squirt of WD-40 or similar every now and then.
Now I can't get the key in it.
People tell me I've gummed it up and should have been using graphite powder.
Surprising. You might try spraying a solvent like electrical contact cleaner in it and try to work it loose. I've had good luck using contact cleaner for mechanical things (like locks) that are sort of gummed up.
- #9
With locks, I would say go with something that won't gum up (oxidize) and go with something that is very thin. Graphite slips on itself very well, but it can act as a catalyst for oxidizing reactions with metal. This is further hastened if multiple metals, oxygen, and the graphite are all in contact. This makes it difficult to reap the benefits of graphite while avoiding the corrosion effects that follow it. For perspective, the thinner the oil that it gets paired with ends up running a tighter margin for inhibition, protection, and resisting exposure to oxygen, completing the circuit for corrosion. If you can, I would try a disulfide such as Molybdenum disulfide, PTFE (teflon), or Boron nitride. You can also use ester containing oils, as these are very stable and can be very, very thin as well while still being lubricious.
Last note: acetone makes a great carrier to deliver your lubricant to very tight places, but it can damage a wide range of plastics. If you do have a majority of plastics in your locks, silicone oil (PDMS / siloxane) works very well for providing lubricity on those surfaces.
Last note: acetone makes a great carrier to deliver your lubricant to very tight places, but it can damage a wide range of plastics. If you do have a majority of plastics in your locks, silicone oil (PDMS / siloxane) works very well for providing lubricity on those surfaces.
Overfill
Joined Jan 30, 2018 Messages 862 Location East Texas
- May 2, 2018
Blaster/ B'laster Dry with Teflon (contains acetone)
Liquid Wrench garage door lube
Liquid Wrench penetrating oil
Liquid Wrench garage door lube
Liquid Wrench penetrating oil
Last edited: May 2, 2018
- May 2, 2018
- #11
Graphite can accumulate and cake if the locks are lubricated frequently. If that's your pattern of lubrication, it would be a good habit to flush the lock out from time to time with a solvent or WD-40. There is also a small chance the graphite could wreak havoc with the electricals near the lock.
Tri-Flow is a good lubricant for locks. It has Teflon particles in a quality-based oil.
Tri-Flow is a good lubricant for locks. It has Teflon particles in a quality-based oil.
S
Superflop
Joined Jul 1, 2009 Messages 436 Location Seattle
- May 2, 2018
Dont use graphite in locks. Use a teflon spray such as tri-flow. Clean it out with brake clean or contact cleaner then saturate with tri-flow. The solvent will blow out any old lube, or accumulated crud and any moisture.
Last edited: May 2, 2018
- May 2, 2018
at homedepot, plastic safe, can be used as a penetrant, cleans and prevents corrosion, lubricates. Its my go to multi purpose oil. Its almost a joke with friends of mine if there is any problem CRC it, solves all issues.
Last edited: May 2, 2018
- May 2, 2018
I just rub a construction pencil over the teeth of my keys and it keeps the locks running smooth! Simple and doesn't over do it to cake things up inside.
- May 2, 2018
My GTO had alot of issues with the ignition and key. Dry lube did absolutely nothing and one day at work I couldn't remove the key nor turn it. A tow to the dealer and 0 dollars later I found out that it was a design issue. AFAIK most vehicle ignition lock cylinders moving parts have grease on them from the factory, my concern about blowing graphite into the mechanism would be a build up of "Sludge" from the graphite combining with the grease. I'm also wary since graphite is conductive and today's steering columns are chock full of electronic components that excessive amounts of graphite might cause a short. I believe in most vehicle owners manual (at least with my car) there is a list of components and their recommended lubricants, like using di-electric grease on the weather seal etc, and of course all is OE stuff.
- May 2, 2018
- #16
I keep a very small can of WD-40 in my side door compartment to spray in the door lock mechanisms. What gets on the key gets into the ignition switch.
DBMaster
Joined Sep 18, 2012 Messages 6,180 Location DFW
- May 2, 2018
- #17
This is all we have ever used for locks - both auto and home. It is specifically made for locks.
- May 2, 2018
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I gave my drivers side lock a squirt of WD-40 or similar every now and then.
Now I can't get the key in it.
Saw that at the rifle range regularly.
A guy's bolt would gum up and Willy would race to the rescue with his WD40, saturating it, washing away the gum, and off they went.
8=10 weeks later, same guy same gummy bolt...WD40 does that.
I gave my drivers side lock a squirt of WD-40 or similar every now and then.
Now I can't get the key in it.
Saw that at the rifle range regularly.
A guy's bolt would gum up and Willy would race to the rescue with his WD40, saturating it, washing away the gum, and off they went.
8=10 weeks later, same guy same gummy bolt...WD40 does that.
- May 2, 2018
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
GM reccomends this. It’s silicone with Teflon.
I'm generally a fan of AC Delco products like this, but "Syncolon" as a trade name? Oy vey!
Generally speaking, with the taxis, simple WD-40 did good enough over the years. I generally prefer something similar to this GM product, though, at least for me.
GM reccomends this. It’s silicone with Teflon.
I'm generally a fan of AC Delco products like this, but "Syncolon" as a trade name? Oy vey!
Generally speaking, with the taxis, simple WD-40 did good enough over the years. I generally prefer something similar to this GM product, though, at least for me.
Status Not open for further replies.
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